Observing the little traditional conventions in life – one pink sock for Michaelmas day, keeping toenail clippings in a separate jar from fingernails, cream first, then jam, then bacon – is what separates us from the animals. It gives life shape, meaning, and odour. Whether any of this appears in the show is of course, at this point, moot. It may just be an ill-advised attempt to lose weight by eating only olive oil and balsamic vinegar. 'Magnificently pessimistic' **** (List). 'Unfashionable... slightly mad' **** (Chortle.co.uk) 'Masterclass in socio-political comedy' ***** (Scotsman).